Known as Zen Master Thich Nhat Hanh's famous "Route Pagoda", Tu Hieu Pagoda is not only a place for monks to live their waking life, but also want to find a quiet sanctuary to escape from their busy lives. It is also suitable for those who think they will live or stay and learn meditation.
Perched on a flat hill in Thuy Xuan Municipality, the historic Tu Hieu is one of Hue's oldest pagodas. Initially, Tu Hieu was a small temple founded and headed by Thich Nhat Hanh, who was a noble monk under his four reigns at the beginning of the Nguyen dynasty.
In late 1848, it was buried in the Pagoda Cemetery and restored and expanded with the financial support of eunuchs seeking solace in the afterlife. To this day, about 30 eunuch tombs remain in the tower courtyard.
Past the newly built welcome gate, a narrow alley winding through bushes and pine trees leads to the main gate of Tu Hieu Pagoda. Opposite the Sanmon gate is a pine mound, on which a bodhi stupa has been built since 1896 to store worn bibles and broken monastery facilities.
On the other side of the old gate, on the second floor, stands a statue of a law guardian overlooking a crescent-shaped pond. A short concrete staircase allows monks and visitors to descend to the water's edge to feed the fish. Large and small fish live together in a narrow pond.
They are brave enough to swim right near the bottom steps, where we crouch and watch them. I happened to notice a strange object in the pond. However, a few seconds later, it turned out to be a large black fish with a deformed spine that was said to have lived in the pond for a long time. It looks like
The crescent-shaped pond is connected to the main sanctuary by a tree-lined path. The main sanctuary is where the monks perform their daily worship. In its forecourt are two moss-covered steles of him, built in 1849 and 1899, recounting the construction of historic towers.
I stay in the bookstore a little longer, contemplating Thich Nhat Hanh's calligraphy quote "Peace step by step" that hangs on a wooden post. Suddenly, I longed to be taught walking meditation in Thailand. The title means "teacher or master" in Vietnamese and was honored by Thich Nhat Hanh.
Then walk to the spacious Zen Hall, where Buddhists gather every Sunday and on special occasions to hear Dharma talks and practice meditation. After walking around the pagoda, you may want to find a resting place. My favorite spot is the stone tables and stools by the fountain and lotus pond.
I sit quietly and enjoy the white lotuses and purple water lilies basking in the late-day sunshine. where monks often sit to study or relax. A monk sits in the lotus position on a zigzag bamboo bridge that connects the pavilion to the other side.
He doesn't care about the visitors to the pagoda or the chirping of insects around him; he just reads. Occasionally, a monk treads past us. He forms his hand right on the lotus bud in front of his chest and returns our greeting. It feels awkward at first, but you soon develop an interest in this solemn greeting ritual.
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Little did I know that my hands could be shaped like beautiful lotus buds. I am secretly beginning to admire monks and their manners. Her humble and gentle gaze takes me away from the busy world outside the pagoda for a while. It reminds me of the life of the Buddha's sangha, which I read about in The Ancient Way, White Clouds, by Thich Nhat Hanh, the founder of La Voi Press.
As Zen monks, they study dharma and practice meditation to rid their souls and hearts of anger, greed, and dullness. We also exercise to strengthen our bodies and sharpen our senses. That's not all. They even pass on their knowledge to those who love it.
On flat land, a young monk is busy teaching young children martial arts. not new to pagodas, but neighborhood kids. Monks stop from time to time to correct wrong postures. When I see the smiles on the boys' faces, I think they love the sport and are happy with their special coach.
At dusk, visitors leave the pagoda. But they know they can always come back. Tu Hieu is open to anyone interested in practicing meditation, or simply enjoying the tranquil atmosphere of a Zen monastery.
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